Conscious Cuisine: Light Bistro
By Maggie Busser, the Awakened Epicurean

We Clevelanders are extraordinarily fortunate to have a wealth of chef-driven restaurants dotting the cityscape. These neighborhood establishments serve as galleries exhibiting culinary masterpieces. With the opportunity to showcase the unique to the beautiful to the bizarre, chef-owners turn their gastronomic dreams into reality. And so goes the story for Matthew Mathlage, chef and part owner of Light Bistro in the Ohio City neighborhood. What started as a vision came to fruition when he and co-owner Eric Dietrich opened the restaurant this past spring. “Matt knew the name right away,” explains Eric, and “light” is the centerpiece to Matt's approach.

“We are using smaller portions and lighter fare, often lighter calories and a lighter feel in your mouth,” describes Matt. He continues, “We want to illuminate Cleveland to this style of dining that people all over the world need to eat – using smaller plates with appropriate portions.”

Light Bistro is located in the space formerly occupied by Parker's Bistro, known for its leadership in and commitment to local foods. Matt has continued the legacy of fostering connections with local farmers and highlights regional products in his cuisine. However, he says, “No matter where we landed, we planned to do fresh, organic food. We just happened to fall into the place known for it in Cleveland.” Although the fact that Parker's formerly resided here and leaves “big shoes to fill,” Matt says he feels fortunate for the groundwork that Parker's laid. “We also network with farmers and other chefs at the farmers' market,” says Matt. “Those of us involved in the local-foods movement really respect each other.”

Matt's passion for local foods has followed a natural progression. “I decided to be healthier and became interested in organic foods as a result, which quickly led me to seeking local sources. My cooking this way developed out of my curiosity as I read and learned more about it. It is a trend now, but I hope it becomes the only option.” With a brimming exuberance for the local-foods movement, Matt and his cooking have influenced Eric's dining habits, as well. According to Eric, Matt has completely changed the way he and his wife approach the food they eat.

Although still recognizable as the space formerly inhabited by Parker's, Light Bistro has been updated to elevate the local connection a notch. Area artist Jim Morana created the art gracing the walls. This gives him excellent exposure and the opportunity to sell the pieces. Matt attests, “We are truly dedicated to doing everything locally and helping as many people along the way as we can.” In addition, the back room features a mural painted by Eric's wife Michelle.

In another boon for the locals, Light Bistro's menu lists its local suppliers. “Sources of Light,” the farms and producers that regularly supply the restaurant with everything from meats to cheeses to peas and more, highlight the menu. The servers are educated on this topic as well, and customers are encouraged to search out the farms on their own.

Using flavors and techniques from around the world in a style he describes as “progressive American,” Matt's menu includes an impressive array of unique preparations listed under the headings “tapas,” “taste” and “share,” as well as a “market menu” option in which Matt creates a five-course meal using the freshest ingredients in the kitchen.

I began my meal with a sampling of tapas including the savory and tangy house-marinated olives that were infused with garlic, dill, tarragon and bay leaf. The wild mushrooms had been marinated for two days in sherry, garlic, fennel, rosemary and other herbs, yielding tender, soft deliciousness. (I recommend dipping the house-made bread into the extra marinade.) I also thoroughly enjoyed each bite of bacon-wrapped dates. The salty, crunchy exterior of meat encircled a moist, sweet center. The nutty Marcona almonds from Spain and spiced pecans with cinnamon and honey offered excellent snacking as well.

Moving on to the “taste” menu, I dined on dishes that became my favorites of the evening. The perfectly seared, tender sea scallops were served on a bed of earthy roasted potatoes. A couple of clams nestled along the side with a pitcher of a wonderfully rich but light chowder sauce, and an amazing, savory olive-oil cracker graced the top. Before digging in, I bathed the scallops in the creamy chowder. Matt artfully presented the braised pork belly as well. Served on a bed of pineapple carpaccio with chipotle-spiced Israeli couscous dotting the plate, this dish was phenomenal. The savory flavor of the buttery pork coated in barbeque-sauce balanced perfectly with the sweetness of the pineapple and the heat of the chipotle. The texture of the three together was amazing. Matt explained to me that he focuses on balancing contrasting flavors – one by itself may be overpowering but in combination they form a culinary delight.

In yet another distinctive approach, Matt prepares their sirloin dish from the “share” menu with a French technique called “sous vide” in which the meat is coated with butter and brown sugar and then cooked under a vacuum in a bag at 120 degrees for an hour. The process breaks down the fibers in the steak, making it naturally tender while imparting an impressive flavor. Right before serving, the steak is removed from the bag and seared to order. A cheese-y French onion fondue, crispy slender strips of bacon and a crusted-potato gallette accompanied the flavorful, tender meat.

For dessert, I recommend the plate of fresh, soft, chewy chocolate chip cookies. The ample serving size is plenty to share, and milk was offered immediately. For a “grown-up” take on the dessert, try one of their fine rums. Served in a cognac glass, the vanilla flavor complements the chocolate perfectly.

As the “new kid on the block” in Ohio City, Chef Matt is already establishing his culinary prowess with innovative dishes born of his curiosity and desire to pursue artistic endeavors in the kitchen. In addition to stopping in for a lunch or dinner bite, drop in for one of Light Bistro's specialty dinners, such as the monthly vegetarian or the semi-regular wine-paired meals. The restaurant also encourages laid-back happy-hour gatherings with drink and food specials, and provides on- and off-site catering. Regardless of your meal choice at Light Bistro, you can be confident that the flavor, beauty and brilliance shine directly from Matt's heart.

Light Bistro is located at 2801 Bridge Avenue in the Ohio City neighborhood of Cleveland. It can be reached by calling (216) 771-7130. For more information and to view the menu, visit www.LightBistro.com.