Conscious Cuisine: Crop Bistro and Bar
By Maggie Busser, The Awakened Epicurean
Saint Stephen with a rose
In and out of the garden he goes
Country garland in the wind and the rain
Wherever he goes the people all complain
Licks of this Grateful Dead song float through the air; playful oversized, close-range photographs of fruits and vegetables splash color across walls and tabletops. Somehow, owner and chef Steve Schimoler has succeeded in pulling off this free-spirited atmosphere without diminishing the seriousness of the food. However, this is not to say that he approaches food in a traditional manner, either. Located in the Warehouse District neighborhood of Cleveland, Steve's restaurant, Crop Bistro & Bar, is everything but the expected and anything but stogy. That said, it also happens to be a classy, fine-dining establishment.
The kaleidoscope setting of music and visuals merely sets the stage. The true stars of Crop are the dishes created by Steve. “Hot Popcorn” anyone? How about a “Cherry Bomb?” Come prepared to chat with servers to decipher some of Crop's menu items. Listed on the menu in a simple yet creative manner, enticing diners and encouraging interaction, these dishes are inspired not only in title. Steve's extensive experience and specialty are in designing healthier foods with what he calls “distrac-tionary” flavors. “Salt, sugar and fat form the 'trinity of flavor,'” he says. “So to design a healthier dish, I look to reduce these three and replace them with something in harmony, but I make it unexpected. That distracts your physiological sensory experience while retaining the crave-ability.”
Taking a mad scientist-like approach – replacing fat with natural microparticulated whey concentrate, and sugar with opal basil in a peach pie, for instance – Steve conjures dishes out of the freshest, most local foods he can procure. “My philosophy is to start with 'made in the USA.' I could do an all-organic menu, but half of it would come from other countries which does nothing for our local businesses,” Steve explains. “Buying local is the most important part, the rest is strategic. Once there is a sustainable business model, we can work with local farmers to grow organic products.”
Steve puts no stress on the need for an organic label on the food he purchases because, “In many cases, these small farms meet an organic profile, but they cannot afford to become certified.” Instead, Steve highlights the importance of both the restaurants' and diners' conscientious choices. “We go out of our way to bring an ingredient story to what we are doing by telling the origin of the food. It helps to bring a face and a name to the people who are producing the food.” He continues, “It is important to have restaurants carrying the torch, along with customers making a particular menu choice because they know it keeps money in the local economy, it has been on a truck only a short distance, and it is environmentally sensitive because extra fuel and packaging have not been used.”
As mentioned, however, the menu descriptions only hint at the actual dishes. For example, I began my meal with “Crop Drop Soup,” which was simply listed as a poached egg, tomato broth and crispy Serrano ham, but the dish offered an intense, greater flavor experience. When it arrived, I pierced the poached egg with my fork, allowing its creamy yolk to spill into the pool of tomato broth, all contained in a latte mug. With each bite, I savored the rich deliciousness that reminded me of a decadent breakfast. I dipped the crunchy Asiago tuille into the yolky broth for an added delight in between bites. Although it is hard to say (due to the tough competition), this may have been my favorite dish of the evening.
Next, Steve sent out the caprese salad dished up in the most artful way I could ever imagine. (However, a number of the presentations at Crop were equally unique and visually pleasing.) Slices of an intricately-lobed pinkish-red heirloom tomato were laid out with a pile of marinated, chunky pieces of a different kind of tomato along with grape tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and a drizzle of balsamic with bits of basil. The garden-fresh, sweet and nearly buttery flavor of the tomatoes expertly offset the creamy freshness of the cheese.
Moving on to entrées, I then sampled the scallops. As the plate arrived, the tantalizing aroma of the fresh corn wafted past me. Combined with sun-dried tomatoes and a creamy sauce, the pleasantly salty flavors perfectly complemented the dish. The scallops' crunchy exterior yielded to reveal a moist and tender interior. Each bite held a hint of anise.
The lamb entrée was presented in a straightforward manner. The tender, moist meat had been cooked with figs, infusing it with gentle sweetness. On the side sat a helping of large pearled Israeli couscous infused with a bit of herbed sweetness and tender sautéed spinach mixed in. The side's slightly-chewy texture went well with the light meat, and an amazing, flavorful au jus provided delicious dipping opportunities.
The duck was my favorite entrée of the evening. Corn and peppers, both in season at the time, punctuated the plate and the palette like bursts of sweet confetti. The two preparations of Maple Leaf Farms duck were accompanied by a potato cake reminiscent of stuffing. Perfectly herbed with rosemary, the potato cake also boasted celery and onions. Au jus complemented the flavors and textures in this dish, and I was grateful to take home the savory leftovers.
For dessert, I recommend tasting a couple of Crop's offerings. Chocolate lovers – like me – should go for the flourless chocolate cake. Its unabashed fudgie-ness was chewy, and so rich that it nearly stuck to the roof of my mouth. On the lighter side – but nonetheless rich – was the Lake Erie Chevre cheesecake. This dessert combines locally-produced goat cheese with mascarpone cheese and then layers the resulting light and creamy cheesecake onto a soft, thick lavender-infused cookie crust. Chopped pistachios grace the outer edges, and strawberries top the creamy confection to create an overall perfect dessert bite-for-bite.
I would be remiss not to mention the cocktails at Crop. Steve explains that he brings the kitchen into the bar when playing with cocktail concepts. “I like to push the envelope in a way that is still recognizable to people,” he says. An excellent example of a Crop cocktail is the caprese martini – Crop infuses quality vodka with fresh tomatoes and shakes it with muddled fresh basil. Served straight-up in a martini glass and garnished with a balsamic-infused grape tomato and a small ball of fresh mozzarella, this drink truly – not to mention oh! so deliciously – tastes quite a bit like the salad I described above but with a kick!
After experiencing Crop – the food, the music, the atmosphere, the people – I can fully understand Steve's elucidation that “Crop is about doing things that no one else is doing – taking risks while having fun. It is not about elaborate, pretentious stuff. It is about honest preparations that 'technically' leverage flavor. Having fun in a way that allows me to play is fulfilling for me. And it carries over to the people in the kitchen, the front of the house and the rest of the staff. It is engaging, and ultimately the customer picks up that vibe.”
When you visit Crop Bistro & Bar, do not worry about distinguishing between the music swirling in your head, the beautiful photos, the outstanding cocktails and the amazing preparations. These all are Steve's cleverly crafted, whimsical “distractions” for you to enjoy in one harmoniously delightful experience.
Fortune comes a crawlin', Calliope woman
Spinning that curious sense of your own
Can you answer? Yes I can,
but what would be the answer to the answer man?
Crop Bistro & Bar is located at 1400 West Sixth Street in the Warehouse District neighborhood of Cleveland. Among other special events, it holds a “Cream of the Crop” night on Thursdays at 10 p.m. featuring bands comprised of local chefs, including the Crop Band with Steve on drums. For more information, visit www.CropBistro.com or call (216) 696-CROP (2797).
