The efforts of husband and wife team Alicia and Brian Linihan include far more than cooking delicious Italian food at their Cleveland Heights restaurant Marotta's. Fulfilling a dream they created together after meeting in a restaurant kitchen while working in New York, the couple has literally – and figuratively – built their business from the ground up. In addition to designing and building the restaurant inside and out – including the menu, of course – the Linihans have established countless relationships in Ohio and Italy, while also maintaining ties in New York, in order to source the highest quality foods produced in the most conscientious way by small farmers and artisans. Alicia explains, “For us, these are ethically sound decisions. It is what we believe in our hearts, and it comes from our passion for food.”

Alicia, a native of Cleveland Heights, grew up in an Italian-American family; the restaurant bears her maiden name, Marotta. Brian, who grew up on Long Island, is “Italian by choice,” according to Alicia. The two travel extensively, especially to Italy, and they fashioned Marotta's after what they found there – intimate atmospheres, personal experiences and farm-fresh local and artisan foods.

Marotta's is putting a local spin on the Old World – traditional recipes with an American twist. Boasting pasta to pizza to entrees, everyone is sure to find something they fancy on the menu. However, before making a selection, be sure to consider the specials, which offer wines and dishes from one of Italy's 20 regions. Marotta's focuses on these regions one by one, spending anywhere from two weeks to two months featuring each, depending on its size. “When I am coming up with ideas for specials,” Brian says, “Alicia is my major resource because she came from an Italian-American family and she also is familiar with what foods are available locally.”

The Linihans work directly with local farmers, often arranging to meet them halfway in order to pick up the harvest during the farmers' busy growing season. In addition, the couple frequents North Union Farmer's Market in Shaker Heights, a weekly open-air, producer-only market. “It is incredible that these products are available to the general public,” shares Alicia. “We encourage everyone in the community – not just restaurants – to use this local fresh-food resource. Anyone can become educated about our local products.”

If you happened to have missed the farmers' market this week – or if you are looking for an excellent Italian preparation of farm-fresh finds – head to Marotta's and catch the server explaining the specials. For example, I began my meal with a dish I intend to eat every time I visit the restaurant this summer – the caprese salad. The beauty of this very simple dish relies firmly on the quality of the ingredients. (In fact, I do not order this salad from just any place during any season for exactly this reason!) Marotta's artfully layered golden and red heirloom tomatoes with mozzarella from a New York, family-owned producer that employs Old World ways in its cheese-making. Brian has known the family for years. (“They are near and dear to our hearts,” he explains). A playful sprig of basil, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, a sprinkle of salt and a couple twists of freshly ground pepper from the mill rounded out the stunningly elegant dish. Although a basic preparation, the quality ingredients create an exceptional development of flavors with each bite – first the salty, creamy mozzarella followed by the juicy, crunchy, sweet tomato and finally the lingering savory, fresh basil. Bite for bite, this dish is pure summer plus pure Italy.

I then sampled a salad of crunchy local greens lightly tossed with balsamic vinaigrette and topped with line-caught wild Alaskan king salmon, a compote of figs, apples and currants and a sprinkling of toasted pine nuts. Fresh and filling, this was one of the most unique salads I have ever eaten. The Linihans are extremely particular about the source and types of fish they serve. Most of what they offer is line caught and none of it is farmed, over fished or from an environmentally questionable area. The carefulness of their selections not only keeps their consciences clear, it also makes for the ultimate in flavorful offerings for their guests. This salmon – with a crunchy exterior and moist interior – perfectly complemented the unique, slightly sweet compote. The delightful lingering flavor of the wine in the compote mingled with the earthy, fragrant nuttiness of the pine nuts.

What would an Italian meal be without some pasta? I am particular about the pasta I eat, and Marotta's pappardelle Bolognese certainly did not disappoint me. The plate held a tangled mound of light, tender ribbons of fresh pasta from Ohio City Pasta, a local purveyor. Intermingled with a hearty Bolognese sauce of ground local pork, local beef and veal (which is not readily available locally) the dish was topped with slivers of fresh basil. The Linihans learned to make its traditional sauce – succulent, savory, meaty and not at all saucy – in Bologna, Italy. Thankfully, they do not skimp on the serving, and the dish features an even ratio of extraordinary pasta to incredible meat.

On the regular menu, Marotta's offers a full selection of pizza with abundant choices of sauces and toppings. For a pure pizza experience, I sampled the Napoleon, basic tomato sauce and mozzarella. Without a doubt, this pizza has no equal in Greater Cleveland. It tastes the way classic pizza is supposed to taste – a crispy but moist crust layered with a thin, rich sauce and a dusting of oregano, topped with oozing, salty, rich cheese. The Margherita pizza was just as flavorful. Rich olive oil topped the crunchy crust; then fresh mozzarella, chunks of juicy Roma tomatoes and copious ribbons of fresh basil.

Thank goodness I saved a bit of room for dessert because Marotta's tiramisu was the best I have ever eaten. A portion sizable enough for two, this classic Italian dessert includes light, sweet sponge cake (called lady fingers) dipped in espresso, topped with rich mascarpone custard and a dusting of cocoa powder. This sweet delight was the perfect ending to the meal.

Along with the memories of the incredible food, I left the restaurant savoring the sweetness of Alicia and Brian Linihan – particularly the conscientious choices they have made in their intimate, affordably-priced establishment. In addition to their culinary experience and artfulness, the Linihans are truly invested in the process of utilizing small-farm sources to bring the best foods and wines to the table. Do note that the restaurant is small – reservations are not accepted – and they have a delightful seating area out back that reminds me of the tender moment when Lady and the Tramp lovingly shared their plate of spaghetti.

Alicia eloquently encourages us, “Support local businesses. Every time you go to a chain restaurant, it diverts many of the dollars you spend out of our community. Going there might be convenient or fast, but it often is eating for maintenance. Instead, eat for en-joyment. It is about the experience. We love to serve people who are passionate about food.” And you will love the food and wine passionately served to you at Marotta's.

Marotta's is located at 2289 Lee Road in Cleveland Heights. Dinners are served Monday through Saturday and the restaurant can be reached by calling (216) 932-9264. For more information, visit www.Marottas.com.

Photos by Bob Perkoski, www.Perkoski.com.