Balanced Living Magazine - January - February - Rewards of Shopping the Winter Markets

Rewards of Shopping the Winter Markets
By Ben Bebenroth

Supporting the local agricultural scene is easy between May and November because the farmers' market offerings are varied and generous. But what is left for us to choose from during the five months of winter gray? Plenty! Once the bright colors of the harvest fade away from farmers' stands, indoor markets still offer an abundance of sustainable foods to carry us through to spring.

Hearty root veggies and potato crops are plentiful, along with an array of cheeses, eggs, dairy, grains, hydroponic greens, apples, squash and herbs. Farmers utilize high tunnels or hoop houses to grow kale, cabbage and other winter greens long into the snowy season. These offerings are perfect to bulk up soups and stews with color, body and sustenance. You will also find a great selection of meats – free-range organic poultry, bison, grass-fed beef and organic pork – to feature in your family recipes and favorite dishes.

As the seasons change, so do your dietary needs. This results in cravings for red meats and carbohydrates to warm the body on long, cold nights. Never underestimate the importance of protein-rich eggs and calcium from iron-filled greens to help fend off illness and keep the spirit strong. And, while our bodies send subliminal signals to our bellies for comfort food, our intellects remind us of an enduring commitment to the community that cannot be ignored.

Our local farmers need our support throughout the year, not just when the tomatoes are ripe on the vine. As you know, the rising costs of winter living can be taxing, especially for those who depend on an agricultural profit to see them through. Your off-season visits to indoor markets instill confidence in farm-run businesses during particularly trying times. Use the short lines to your advantage – strike up conversations with the growers; ask the questions you have been waiting all season to ask. The relationships you build with your “regular” status are sure to get you the inside scoop or an appreciative handshake.

There is something about the feel-good nature of wandering in the market from table to table, knowing that your hard-earned dollars are going into hard-working hands. And, of course, who can deny the health benefits of produce that is free from preservatives and pesticides? Sure, these may be the same reasons you frequent the warm-weather markets, but visit a winter market and you will notice that the rewards ring a bit clearer when the snow flies and the crowds thin.

So go ahead. Set the alarm next Saturday morning. After that first cup of coffee, traveling to the market may not seem like such an endeavor after all. Once you have your goods stowed in the trunk and you are on your way home, you may notice extra warmth beneath your coat, brimming from your contented soul.

Chili Spiked Pumpkin Soup
Serves 12

1 Long Island cheese pumpkin
(about 5 lbs)
3 T olive oil
2 dried chilies
1 white onion
2 cloves garlic
1 cinnamon stick
2 bay leaves
1 cup Riesling or other sweet acidic wine
1 qt chicken or vegetable stock salt and pepper to taste

1. Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees.
2. Split pumpkin and remove seeds. Place in a deep baking dish, flesh side down with one bay leaf under each half.
3. Roast for 1 to 1-1/2 hours until soft enough to dent with a finger.
4. While roasting, chop onion into medium dice.
5. Split dried chilies and remove seeds.
6. Mince garlic cloves.
7. Heat a heavy-bottom pot over medium-low heat. Add olive oil and onion. Cook slowly until translucent, about 20 minutes.
8. Remove pumpkin from oven and cool; scoop and remove flesh.
9. Add chilies to the pot and sauté for a minute, then add garlic and sauté another minute.
10. Add Riesling and stir, scraping bottom of pan to deglaze. Reduce until au sec (almost dry).
11. Add pumpkin flesh, stock and cinnamon stick. Simmer 45 minutes.
12. Season with salt and pepper and simmer another 20 minutes.
13. Puree with a stick blender and re-season with salt and pepper.

Sweet Potato Fritters
Serves 6

3 medium sweet potatoes
1/2 to 1 cup buttermilk
1 onion
1/4 t nutmeg
1-1/2 t salt
10 turns of a pepper mill
½ to 1 cup all purpose flour
1/2 t baking powder
1/2 t baking soda
2 eggs
olive oil or vegetable oil for frying

1. Peel and shred sweet potatoes on a box grater.
2. Place shredded potato in a bowl and cover with 1/2 cup of buttermilk to prevent browning.
3. Grate onion on the box grater and add to the bowl of sweet potato.
4. Add the salt, pepper, eggs and nutmeg to the bowl. Mix well.
5. Add the baking soda and baking powder to 1/2 cup of flour, then mix into the batter. (Be careful not to mix the batter a great deal after the flour is added or it will become gummy.)
6. Keep the extra flour and butter- milk to adjust the consistency of the batter. (It should look like pancake batter with sweet potatoes suspended in it.)
7. Heat oil in a deep pot, half full, to 350 degrees.
8. Spoon in a tablespoon of batter to the hot oil. Fry until golden orange and floating.
9. Remove from oil and drain on paper towels. Season with salt and taste before frying any others, adjust seasoning as necessary.

Rosemary Glazed Fingerlings
Serves 6

2 pints fingerling potatoes
3 T olive oil (good quality)
3 sprigs fresh rosemary
1 t sea salt
2 t brown sugar

1. Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees.
2. Rinse the potatoes under cold water to clean.
3. Set on a towel to dry.
4. Pick the leaves off two of the rosemary sprigs, create a small pile and bruise (smash) with the back of a knife to activate the flavorful oils.
5. Toss potatoes with olive oil, 2 sprigs picked rosemary and brown sugar.
6. Place on a baking sheet and roast until golden and tender, about 15-25 minutes depending on size.
7. Remove from oven and season with sea salt.
8. Pick and bruise the remaining sprig of rosemary and add to the hot seasoned spuds.

Chef Ben Bebenroth is Northeast Ohio's only caterer with both extensive fine-dining experience and deep-seated relationships with local farmers. As executive chef/owner of Spice of Life Catering Co., he customizes every menu to the season and occasion using local and organic ingredients. Visit SpiceOfLifeCaters.com or call (440) 623-9990 for details.