Conscious Cuisine: Buttuto Ristorante
By Maggie Busser
One's community can be defined though a number of personal parameters – geographic area, livelihood, hobbies, socio-economic status, family size or leisure activities, to name a handful. Mark Daverio and Giovanna Daverio, owners of Battuto Ristorante in the Little Italy neighborhood of Cleveland, choose to define themselves by identifying with the food producers in Northeast Ohio. As the farmers' yield shifts with the changing of the seasons and the whim of the weather, the menu at Battuto evolves in eloquent agreement. “It is important to support the community and to develop a symbiotic relationship,” Mark explains. Cultivating modern Italian cuisine, Mark and Giovanna have found an exquisite balance between their Italian roots and their passionate support of locally grown, organic and natural foods.
During a six-month trip through Italy, Mark and Giovanna experienced the townspeople's daily practice of building a menu for the family dinner right there in the market while selecting fresh produce, breads, meats and cheeses. “The grocery store was irrelevant,” Mark remembers with a smile in his eyes. “At five in the afternoon a bell rang when the fishing boats came in. The entire town went down to the docks to get fresh seafood.” He viewed this as the epitome of community support.
In addition to utilizing local foods, Mark and Giovanna make sure to include natural ingredients in their culinary offerings. A five-year stint in San Francisco instilled a consciousness for organic and sustainable agriculture in Mark and Giovanna, making it a natural thing to pursue local food sources from the inception of their restaurant in Little Italy. Considering the extreme differences in Northeast Ohio and Northern California growing seasons, they source food from warmer climates when necessary. “We have to balance the realistic aspect of it with our values,” says Mark.
Cast off any preconceived notions (or perhaps even experiences) you may have about a “traditional” Italian restaurant in Little Italy because a dark, stogy atmosphere and meatballs the size of boulders are nowhere in sight at Battuto. Open since the year 2000 (practically considered an infant among veteran businesses in the neighborhood), Battuto glimmers as shadows cast from votives and sconces dance across the terra cotta and sand-colored walls. The light spills out through the floor-to-ceiling window that spans the width of the diminutive dining space to spread a radiant glow over the bustling street outside. On the sidewalk, the aroma of garlic and tomatos wafts on the breeze, making sure passersby are aware that they are indeed in Little Italy. “Clevelanders know food,” Mark declares, “and they know what they are looking for when they come here.”
Hospitality, knowledgeable servers and impeccable attention to detail are a given at many a top-notch establishment such as this, but it is Battuto's modern preparations teamed up with traditional favorites that keep this restaurant's menu inspired and intriguing. “We serve a number of foods that your grandmother may have served to you, but you don't know how to make – such as sweetbreads and liver,” Mark proudly shared.
My meal began with cream of cauliflower soup that had been pureed and strained to a delicate, silky consistency. The flavor of truffle oil whispered through each spoonful. Light, yet wonderfully creamy, this soup warmed every remaining inch of winter chill in my body. Mark explained to me that they make all of their stocks (and sauces, too) in-house to keep them straightforward, knowing exactly what goes into them.
The arugula and radicchio salad arrived next. The plate barely contained the mound of greens topped with smoky pancetta, rich parmesan slivers and nutty-sweet hazelnuts. Tossed in balsamic vinegar, each bite satisfied my palette with a gratifying crunch.
The entrées, however, truly stole the show. I rarely have an interest in pasta – except while in an authentic Italian ristorante that daily makes its own fresh. Battuto is such an establishment, and when visiting in the future, I intend to always sample a selection from the “Primi” section of the menu. Strozzapreti, I learned, looks like a double helix of pasta – two six-to-eight-inch strands that lie slightly twisted on the plate. This unique pasta was tossed with tomatos, onion, garlic, mustard greens, toasted fennel seeds, reggiano cheese and the most amazing local, Amish-raised, shoulder of organic pork. Every bite of the tender pulled pieces melted in my mouth.
I then moved on to the “Secondi” section of the menu and sampled the pan-seared scallops which unlocked the door to food heaven for me once again. The crispy exterior of the firm dry-pack scallops – free of chemicals or other additives – tastefully enclosed a tender, mellifluous interior. The slightest hint of orange was added to the delicate butter sauce that lightly bathed the bottoms of these delightful scallops, as well as the tender braised endive that encircled the plate. In the middle of the dish sat a small mound of potatoes so crisp and rich that they reminded me (in the best way possible) of carnival french fries.
At this point in the meal, I dove into not one, but three, incredible and exceedingly diverse desserts made by Giovanna. The homemade seasonal gelato was creamy and airy with pure and simple pumpkin and cinnamon flavors. The pear crépes, a house specialty, featured tender crépes encasing warm, soft slices of pear. This crépe was topped with home-made vanilla gelato and a drizzle of honey. Next, the chocolate cake was undoubtedly designed for chocolate lovers. The fudgy, flourless confection offered a smooth bite of intensely rich chocolate with each fork ful. The generous dollop of fresh whipped cream offered a creamy reprieve between bites of this decadent cake.
With each visit to Battuto, you will find some of the restaurant's favorite dishes on the menu; but primarily it boasts new selections based on the ingredients available at the time, as well as Mark's creative whim in the kitchen. To say that the wine list is enormous would be an understatement. Be sure to inquire about featured selections and Giovanna's recommended pairings with each course. Considering Battuto's amazing atmosphere, gracious servers and inspired preparations, you surely will want to return time and again for an exceptional Italian dining experience.
Battuto Ristorante is located at 12405 Mayfield Road in the Little Italy neighborhood of Cleveland. It can be reached by calling (216) 707-1055.
