Situated on a corner lot at the intersection of Cornell and Murray Hill roads in the Little Italy neighborhood of Cleveland, towering hedges and a wrought-iron fence almost completely obstruct the view of the Baricelli Inn. It appears as though the neighborhood has entangled itself around the three-story brownstone century mansion. Once a residence in an ethnic neighborhood populated exclusively by Italian immigrants, the Baricelli Inn now is a restaurant/bed-and-breakfast in a thriving community of artists, students and others who simply adore the neighborhood's historic charm. For the past 20 years, chef-owner Paul Minnillo has captured the characteristics of both old and modern Little Italy and has distilled them into an exquisite dining experience.

The Italian meat board offered a striking sample of four thinly sliced options.

   A third-generation restaurateur in Little Italy, Paul has spent his life surrounded by food. “It has taught me that quality means buying nothing but the best,” he says. As he recounts tales of the family businesses and his travels around the world, his zeal for culinary creativity and loyalty to superior products bubble up beneath the surface, occasionally erupting in a passionate diatribe. (“Today's grocery stores want to be everything to everyone,” he protests. “I think they should be specialized and offer an exquisite selection instead.”) Serving top-notch, local, natural and artisan foods, Paul genuinely follows his own advice.

    “A great chef cannot take an inferior product and make it good,” Paul believes, “but a great product will make an inferior chef look pretty good.” Paul's kitchen, of course, has both great products and talented chefs. In the summer, nearly all of its produce is grown locally. (In the winter, Paul continues to purchase anything that is available locally, such as lettuces and squashes.) The meats come from natural, heritage breeds. And the cheeses… the cheeses deserve their own introduction (below), especially since they are an exclusive feature of the restaurant.

Inside the cooler, handcrafted artisan cheeses await their time to be served.

    You can hear the hum and purr of the fans in the glass-walled walk-in cooler that sits in the corner of Baricelli's airy grand-atrium entrance. Inside the cooler, floor-to-ceiling shelves filled with handcrafted artisan cheeses from Italy, France, Germany, Wisconsin, California and Virginia await their time to be served. Only a dozen or so restaurants in the country practice this art of “affinage,” i.e., nurturing cheeses to optimal ripeness and peak flavor.

     Boasting more than 40 varieties of cow, sheep, goat and blended-milk cheeses, the Baricelli's affinage cooler “blooms” cheese for the menu's cheeseboards, as well as for carry-out purchases. Our cheeseboard arrived with a hearty accompaniment of apple and pear slices, grapes, walnuts and raisin-bread toast. Executive Chef Matt Krasnevich explained to us that he was originally attracted to working at Baricelli with Paul because of the unique opportunity to become educated in the art of cheese. As he served the different cheeses, he taught us about the selections gracing our table. Each hailed from a different geographic location and offered a distinct flavor and texture. The triple crème from Burgundy, France was rich and buttery; the Camembert from the Normandy region of France was soft and pungent; the buttermilk blue from Wisconsin was smooth with a mellow bite; and the Sainte Maure from the Sancerre region of France was semi-soft with a mildly sour goat's-milk flavor. Each bite was a decadent foray into the under-experienced world of cheese appreciation.

A warm roasted apple salad with aged Camembert melted over the top.

    Of course, I soon learned that the Baricelli Inn has a great number of foods to taste, learn about and appreciate. For example, I also became a bit more educated in the world of cured meats. The Italian meat board offered a striking sample of four thinly sliced options. The Biellese Berkshire (a natural meat company) salami was peppery and hearty; the Biellese Berkshire coppa was rich; the sopressata was very spicy and delightfully tender; and the San Daniele prosciutto was extra-ordinarily light and creamy. “I will bring in prosciutto only from Italy,” Paul insists.

    Vegetarians need not fear that meat is the only option at the Baricelli Inn. In fact, the menu includes a four-course Ohio vegetable selection. When I asked for details, the server would only tell me that the chef keeps descriptions of the courses under wraps. This allows him to combine his freshest vegetarian ingredients with inspired culinary creativity. For the diner, this creates a delightful opportunity for curiosity and anticipation between each course.

Tempura-battered Bok Choy with marinated fennel and artichoke hearts drizzled with a fresh lemony sorrel vinaigrette.

    The flavors and textures of each of the four courses deliciously contrasted each other. I first sampled a decadent roasted butternut squash soup. Garnished with milk foam, pumpkin-seed oil and a wedge of caramelized squash, this creamy delight was accented with nutmeg and cinnamon. A warm roasted apple salad appeared in front of me next. Slightly salty, aged Camembert cheese was melted over the locally grown, skinned tart apples. Thinly sliced red onion was piled on top of this savory combination, and the plate fancied a trickle of sweet and tangy aged balsamic vinegar. The combination was stunning. The server then presented tempura-battered Bok Choy for my third course. Tasty marinated fennel and artichoke hearts were piled on the crispy, salty, smoky combination, and the plate was drizzled with a fresh lemony sorrel vinaigrette. This crunchy concoction was uniquely satisfying. The fourth and final plate held a curry tofu vegetable stew brimming with sweet beets, creamy blue potatoes, slivers of red cabbage, a few cipolline onions and fried tofu cut into the shape of stars. An aromatic, spicy tomato sauce bathed the hearty array of vegetables and tofu. Without question, the four-course vegetarian selection is the hidden jewel of the Baricelli.

Pleasingly creamy, this rich delight was also wonderfully light.

    The Baricelli menu boasts a diverse assortment of dessert selections. Enticing options such as a trio of homemade ice cream or sorbet and nearly any variety of pastry tempt diners along with coffee drinks, cognacs, ports and other dessert wines. Of course, in a traditional European fashion, cheese may also be ordered to finish the meal. I tried two. First I tasted the chocolate gateau, a layered mousse and moist cake concoction. Pleasingly creamy, this rich delight was also wonderfully light. I then sampled the apple praline tart. A light and flaky crust held delicate layers of fresh, local apples and a praline crumble topping. Homemade vanilla ice cream and dollops of chocolate, strawberry and melon sauces dotted the plate and accented both the creamy and tart flavors.

    To experience the fine art of good food and the history of Little Italy, you will enjoy a visit to the Baricelli Inn where quality permeates every aspect of the restaurant. Separated into five cozy dining areas, the inn offers the comforts of dining in a home. Three of the rooms have an elegant fireplace, and the glassed-in front porch (formerly the front of the mansion) sits perched above the garden all aglow with twinkling lights. Regardless of the room, the food at the Baricelli Inn will take you around the world – Italy, France, Germany and of course, Ohio – and that is just on the cheeseboard!

The Baricelli Inn is located at 2203 Cornell Road in the Little Italy neighborhood of Cleveland. For more information, call (216) 791-6500 or visit www.Baricelli.com.

Photo by Bob Perkoski, www.Perkoski.com.