James Bell, owner of Three Birds Restaurant in Lakewood, immediately comes across as gregarious, unpretentious and deliberate. His eyes cast a smile as he explains the reason for the restaurant's name, “I have three children; I had three culinary influences growing up. But mostly it was the Bob Marley song that put a name to the whole thing.” He continues by singing the words to the Marley tune, 'Three Birds,' “Don't worry about a thing, 'cause every little thing is gonna be all right.” Three Birds Restaurant easily personifies James' character, his influences and the easygoing message of his favorite Marley tune.

   Open since summer 2003, Three Birds Restaurant is nestled in a nook of the corporate offices of Bonnie Bell, the national cosmetics company founded by James' own grandfather, Jesse Bell. An expansive garden allows for sun-dappled dining during the warmer months; and the restaurant's extensive windows offer a gorgeous garden view from within. The interior of the restaurant, largely designed by James' wife Richelle, embodies an industrial aesthetic. The exposed brick walls – once the exterior of the building – mingle with Cabernet-red walls, hardwood floors and exposed ceiling trusses. A painting of Bob Marley hangs by the bar and whimsical figures of birds are unobtrusively perched here and there.

    James grew up as the third generation in a family business, and he proudly believes in the vigor of family ties. He explains, “The strength of family and the need for family, as well as coming from a family with traditions, naturally led to my desire to support local and family-owned businesses.” James uses local purveyors and local produce whenever possible. Many of his connections to farmers have been formed by frequent visits to the North Union Farmer's Markets. “It's all about sustainability and everybody helping each other out.” He continues, “We take care of each other.”

    James describes the food at Three Birds as modern American. “It's a culmination of flavors from the melting pot of America. The culinary style is open to creativity and imagination,” he explains. Weekly specials abound and the menu changes seasonally, allowing the chefs to take advantage of the freshest local produce, meats and fish. The cooking techniques also mimic the seasons – searing in the summer and braising in the winter, for example.

    The menu during my summer visit to Three Birds certainly reflected the luminous flavors and abundant textures of the season. My meal began with a bowl of chilled gazpacho. This summer-time favorite was pureed to a silky texture. The fresh taste of tomatoes, cucumbers and a hint of red pepper was accented with a drizzle of cilantro oil. A slice of avocado-carrot spring roll formed a small island in the center of the bowl. A warm, grilled sandwich of goat's milk and cheddar cheese sat in a bed of arugula alongside the bowl. The melted cheese oozed between the pieces of crispy, crustless, airy bread. It was a perfect soup-dipping accom-paniment.

    My dining pleasure continued with an arugula salad surrounded by three Cabernet-poached figs, each sitting in a small pool of goat-cheese fondue. The warm, yielding figs (imbued with a delicate sweetness) paired perfectly with the warm, melted goat-cheese fondue. The fresh, peppery greens were tossed in a light, unassuming vinaigrette. The artful and unique presentation of this salad was an added bonus to the experience of savoring the combination of flavors.

   Reflecting the assortment of options in modern American fare, Three Birds' entrée menu contained 10 distinctly different preparations of fish, meat and vegetarian items. My question to James was, “If you had to choose one of these entrées to eat for the rest of your life, which one would it be?” With little hesitation, he pointed to the grouper and explained that this regular menu item not only tastes delicious, it just feels healthy to eat. I cannot disagree. The fresh, nutty and buttery macadamia nut-crusted grouper was surrounded by a colorful and tangy passion fruit beurre blanc sauce. Next to the flaky fish sat a deep-fried spring roll, cut on the bias to reveal a vegetable interior. A jewel-toned multi-grain salad also graced the plate. Made of quinoa, wheat berry, barley, pine nuts and cherries that were reconstituted with orange juice, this salad had an amazing, chewy texture and an appetizing, tart flavor. Like James, I, too, would not be opposed to dining on this remarkable meal for the rest of my life.

    James noted that the kitchen at Three Birds specializes in suiting every diner's need – vegetarian, vegan, food sensitivities, low carb and more. While the menu always offers a vegetarian item, the restaurant is happy to mix and match any of the items in creating an interesting and appetizing meal. The friendly, knowledgeable staff explains menu items and assists with diners' selections.

    The advice of our gracious server, William, was especially appreciated when it came to dessert. The list, which includes options that would satisfy any sweet tooth, can be overwhelming for anyone with a penchant for dessert. With William's help, I finally decided on the triple chocolate mousse “martini” and William's personal favorite, the “frozen cheesecake.” The “martini” was not a martini at all – rather a layer each of dark, milk and white chocolate filling a martini glass to the rim. Velvety and airy, this dessert was the perfect choice for fulfilling a chocolate craving without overfilling the stomach. The name of the “frozen cheesecake” was also deceiving. Instead of cheesecake, this dessert is actually a tower of extremely rich cream cheese ice cream bathed in a tart raspberry compote. Complete with chunks of graham cracker walnut crunch, this dessert rivals any true cheesecake that has ever made its way past my lips.

    For an exceptional meal with food as enjoyable and outgoing as the owner and the staff, I recommend a visit to Three Birds Restaurant in Lakewood. The folks there will make sure that you “Don't worry about a thing.” With a full bar, a non-smoking restaurant and a tree-shaded, garden patio (where smoking is allowed), this comfortable, contem-porary restaurant is sure to leave you humming the easy-going Marley tune, too.





Three Birds Restaurant is located at 18515 Detroit Avenue in Lakewood, Ohio. It can be reached by calling (216) 221-3500. Reservations are recom-mended, and there is ample parking behind the building.

Photos by Bob Perkoski - www.Perkoski.com.