Fire \fir\ n. 1: the flame, heat and light of combustion 2: an establishment in Shaker Square offering exceptional contemporary American cuisine made from local, natural and organic ingredients

This landmark restaurant called “Fire” is an arousing, engaging and sensual masterpiece. Its playground of tantalizing aromas, sociable staff and easy atmosphere are immediately enveloping. Close inspection of its austere décor reveals earthy details – plaster stripped to expose underlying brick, mammoth wall mirrors, exposed ductwork, framed bark and the heart of a cherry tree. The unobtrusive elements mingle to showcase the restaurant's open kitchen and the establishment's centerpiece – the food.

Passion, creativity, experience and skill were the ingredients that fueled owner and executive chef Douglas Katz's concept for the restaurant he dubbed Fire, which he opened in 2001. Starting out with the intention of offering “elemental” cooking, Doug cultivated the art of presentation of the fundamentals into every aspect of his restaurant. Although he unquestionably emphasizes the flavor of food, every component of the dining experience at Fire interplays with the others. Each aspect garners its own respect; together the pieces generate an artful dining experience. Even the restaurant's less obvious elements are fascinating. Doug, a Shaker Heights native, explains, “I wanted to be at Shaker Square because it's a charming, community type of place.”

Inside Fire, Doug has cultivated his own sense of community. A brilliant staff and an open kitchen immerse diners in an artful cooking process. Chef's tables line the cooking area, and guests are encouraged to watch and even interact with the chefs. The glowing pizza oven attracts immediate attention. Encasing a brilliant flame, the wood-burning oven renders several menu items imbued with a smoky flavor. The tandoor oven (a high heat, wood-burning clay oven traditionally used in Indian cooking) is also responsible for creating its own unique flavor in many of Doug's menu items. Inside it, homemade flatbread dough bubbles on the hot clay walls as this delicacy bakes to perfection. Doug lowers skewered meats, fish and other ingredients into the oven as well. The extraordinarily high temperature results in an ideal, crispy exterior and tender, moist center.

The tantalizing aromas from the kitchen and my knowledge that natural and local ingredients are included led me to investigate Fire's menu carefully. The design of the menu itself also fit the elemental concept of the restaurant's design. “We don't bother the customer with all of the information on the menu,” Doug remarks. “We want them to trust that we are using the best ingredients, and that food will then taste better.” He continues by explaining that it is the server's responsibility to tell the customers about the plentiful natural, organic and local ingredients.

Doug's appreciation for natural foods came from his experiences working in Boston and Portland. Surrounded by whole foods markets and seasoned chefs, Doug developed an immediate appreciation for the superior tastes of natural, organic and local foods. He also has great respect for the pride that farmers show when presenting their products. “We are interested in working with local, passionate farmers who let us taste what they grow to decide if we want to use it,” Doug says. He has frequented the Shaker Square North Union Farmer's Market since the restaurant’s inception. “When I saw what the farmers' market here was doing, I felt like Fire fit in so well,” he explains. Doug has also developed relationships with non-market farmers in order to increase his use of local products at the restaurant. He also utilizes organic and natural products from other areas of the country. Even the wood that burns in his pizza and tandoor ovens is obtained from the local Raymar Farms, and Doug happily accepts basil from his own father's garden as well.

Doug's cooking expertly exemplifies the exceptional flavors of local and natural ingredients. Beginning my meal at Fire with a couple of appetizers, I was thrilled to dig into the delicate portobello mushroom and gruyère pizza. Caramelized onions and fresh parsley rounded out this earthy, crispy delight, which could easily suffice as an entrée. Next, I delved into the amazing plate of chicken livers. Breaded in a buttermilk batter and served with sweet cherries, lean applewood smoked bacon and sautéed spinach with garlic, this delicacy would delight even the liver-wary palette. My salad was a novel combination of delicious, fresh flavors and a number of interesting textures. The peppery arugula was topped with creamy goat cheese, a generous piece of candied pecan brittle and a soft, sweet gem – a fresh fig roasted to perfection in the tandoor oven.

The vegetarian or vegan guest will be thrilled to know that the chef will happily prepare a novel dish to accommodate any special dietary request. “We make everything to order,” explains Doug, “so I can easily put something together.” I sampled the eggplant puree topped with heirloom tomato relish. It had a delectably pungent bite of garlic, a generous topping of garden-fresh basil and a sprinkle of roasted pine nuts.

Fire's forte, without question, is truly in its meats. My three-inch high pork chop was out of this world. Juicy, thick and flavorful, it was hearty but still light. The tandoor oven had perfectly crisped the outside and tenderized the center. Sweet dried plums and a custardy, jalapeno spoon bread accompanied this flawless dish. Tied for first place, however, was the crispy duck. Its crunchy exterior revealed a tender meat that fell from the bone at the touch of my fork. Stewing in the juices released from the duck, the dish was served with spinach, oyster mushrooms and spaetzle.

Of all of Fire's tempting desserts, I highly recommend the cinnamon crème brulée. Breaking though the candied surface revealed a luscious, creamy center. However, I also recommend inquiring about their dessert wine and coffee selections. Not knowing much about dessert wines, I asked for a recommendation from the server. I was thrilled with his selection of an exceptional tawny port.

With a menu that evolves every few weeks, a timeless atmosphere and a business style showing respect for local and natural ingredients, this restaurant will never go out of style. I highly recommend dining at Fire. The exceptional staff emanates enthusiasm and knowledge about the food and wine they offer. And the food and wine themselves are the vibrant strokes that create the art at Fire.

Fire is located at 13220 Shaker Square in Cleveland, and can be reached by calling (216) 921-FIRE. They serve dinner Tuesday through Sunday, as well as Sunday brunch. Information about catering and their monthly Fire Wine Society events can be found online at www.firefoodanddrink.com.

Photos by Bob Perkoski, www.Perkoski.com.