A symphony of pure flavors in perfect harmony. A preparation emphasizing the natural, pristine taste and texture of each vegetable, meat and fish. A composition of seasonal, regional foods deliberately prepared and unpretentiously presented.

Above all else here at Parker's New American Bistro, food comes first. For the past twenty years, chef-owner Parker Bosley has adhered to this principle without compromise. For reasons of flavor, health and environment, he practices and widely advocates the exclusive use of fresh Northeast Ohio foods found in season the day the meal is prepared. His restaurant in the Ohio City neighborhood in Cleveland is one of the most sustainable in the United States and is the only example of its kind between New York and Chicago.

Parker grew up on an Ohio farm eating fresh food but did not truly appreciate its benefits until after spending some time in France where cooking with fresh food has been elevated to an art form. Parker recalls, “In provincial France in the 1960s, the food very much reflected the place where you lived and the season of the year.” So upon Parker's return to the United States, he began seeking the superior harvests he remembered in his youth

Parker labored to form relationships with smaller local farming concerns so that he could maintain a consistent familiarity with the products he was purchasing. He also used his influence to do business in ways that were in line with his values. Fresh, seasonal food is his first priority, and Parker describes his second priority: “To encourage the farmer to grow in ways that are respectful to the environment, the animals and his whole family's health. If they are organic, it's even better.”

Parker also has genuine concerns about the eating habits of Americans. “Americans are really, really killing themselves with their food,” he laments. “For example, pigs are raised under horrific, mass-production conditions. The air is so terrible that the workers have to wear masks. They constantly give the animals medication just to keep them alive.” Without a hint of humor in his voice, Parker finishes, “Eating food like that is like having unsafe sex with a stranger. You don't know where it has been and with whom.” For twenty years Parker's Bistro has obtained food from only the most reputable, local sources. “We have created relationships with farmers to ensure food is raised properly,” shares a passionate Parker.

With progress has come the continuing challenge of bringing fresh farm produce to the city. According to Parker, “The best thing that's happened in Cleveland has been North Union Farmer's Market.” He and Chef Andy Strizak (a disciple of the local, sustainable movement) are regular customers. “The market tells me what to cook. Everything was picked the day beforehand,” Andy tells us. But creating exceptional meals around seasonal produce poses challenges not faced by most other chefs. “We're at the mercy of the weather, sometimes the farmer, or even ourselves because we can't get there when the produce is harvested.” Andy admits that the payoff, extraordinary flavor, is well worth the extra trouble.

Parker further explains his philosophy. “Ideally, we should eat the food we grow. It's good environmentally, and it's good for us because our bodies are then in tune with our climate. In eating and cooking you should always be anticipating something. You long for it and then you thoroughly enjoy it. When it ends, it's okay because then something else is in season. It's a natural rhythm.”

For my early spring dinner visit to Parker's Bistro “in season” meant an astounding array of meats and fish accompanied by hearty vegetables that naturally store well in a cellar. Due to its uniqueness, the highlight of my appetizers was a flaky, buttery tart brimming with a mound of savory roasted beets and bits of tangy goat cheese. The succulent seared scallops with just a hint of tarragon were equally amazing. In a rare combination, they perfectly complemented the rich and tender slow-roasted pork belly. The complex flavors of the spinach and Gruyere soup were in perfect proportion, and it was easily the lightest cream soup I have ever experienced.

I wholeheartedly encourage vegans to order a selection of the seasonal vegetables. You will be rewarded with the unadulterated beauty of each appetizing bite. Parker's entrees were served with the perfect vegetable pairings, enhancing the flavor of each dish. Satisfying, salty spinach accompanied the aromatic lamb shank -- so tender that it fell off the bone and melted in my mouth. Smokey, savory French lentils offset the organic rainbow trout sautéed with simple elegance and served with a delicate creamed leek sauce. The pleasing sweetness of pureed parsnips perfectly complemented the remarkable sautéed organic perch served with a buttery whole grain mustard sauce that tasted extraordinarily similar to toasty, fresh popcorn. Although this sounds like an unusual marriage of flavors, it was easily paramount in the collection of exceptional entrees.

At Parker's Bistro, some of the desserts are prepared from scratch and must be ordered when your entrée arrives. I was grateful for the consideration and planning involved in preparing the delicate, airy, decadent chocolate soufflé, my first dessert. A crisp, translucent top encrusted a treasure of velvety crème brulée, my second dessert. The third dessert was a hazelnut tart, accompanied by two flavors of homemade ice cream, mouth-watering maple and inimitable prune armaniac. The entire dessert was drizzled with maple syrup.

The straightforward preparation of fresh food at Parker's New American Bistro brings out the ingredients' best flavors and natural deliciousness. I applaud and appreciate not only the remarkable food, but also the great strides that Parker continues to make in promoting local, sustainable agriculture. Northeast Ohio is privileged to claim this rare gem. I encourage everyone to sample the fine fare at this restaurant, and I challenge everyone to explore Parker's dogma.

Parker's New American Bistro is located at 2801 Bridge Avenue in Cleveland and can be reached by calling (216) 771-7130.

Photos by Bob Perkoski.