Until the advent of chemical pesticides, produce was grown naturally, using nutrient-rich animal manures and other organic fertilizers. After World War II, however, factory-processed chemical pesticides came into use with startling suddenness. Their immediate success led some growers to ignore proven methods. But today, despite persistent chemical pesticide use, the natural method continues to be an effective alternative.

Composting Miracle:
Building Fertile Soil
Nutrient-rich soil, a vital first step, ensures a successful natural garden. According to a recent Missouri Station Report, an inverse relationship exists between a nutrient-rich soil and the number of plant-damaging insects. The more fertile the soil, the fewer unwanted pests.

Adding compost (decayed or-ganic wastes) enriches the soil and dramatically improves plant growth. Anyone can make compost from available organic wastes, including grass clippings (not treated with chemical herbicides), yard and garden rakings, hedge trimmings, tree leaves, outer lettuce and cabbage leaves, melon rinds, kitchen scraps (omit meat and bones), and anything organic – even weeds.

Gather wastes into a pile and mix thoroughly. Spread accumulations in a six-inch layer approximately three feet wide by six feet long. Cover the mass with a sprinkling of dehydrated animal manure (generally available in a garden center) or other natural nitrogen substance to feed the friendly microorganisms working to decay the wastes. Cover each layer with garden soil approximately one inch thick. Wet the layer thoroughly but do not soak. Whenever other wastes become available, more layers can be added, until the pile is no more than four feet high. Decay, or composting, requires only a matter of weeks. To hasten the process, re-pile wastes each week to permit air circulation throughout the pile. After organic wastes decay, spread compost on garden soil or around growing plants.

Mulching:
Preventing Plant and Soil Damage
Mulching, a plant and soil-protecting method, also requires organic wastes. Begin a mulching program early, even at seed-planting time. Spread a light layer of mulch over planted areas to help retain soil surface moisture. After seeds germinate and seedlings appear, add more mulch. A mulch pad, about six inches thick, substantially reduces weed growth. Only a persistent weed requires removal.

After rain or irrigation, mulching prevents soil crusting, enabling plants to breathe freely without periodic cultivation. During torrential rain, heavy mulch will prevent plant damage and soil erosion and permits water to seep slowly below the pro-tective covering. A layer of mulch keeps vine vegetables, including cucumbers, melons and squash, from making soil contact, eliminating fruit mildew damage. Mulch will keep soil cool during hot weather and moist during dry times. Be sure to add mulch from time to time as it converts to humus (decomposed soil).

Beneficial Insects
The novice gardener fails to understand how insects help to produce a successful harvest. Most insects could be classified as beneficial. Even so-called “pests” provide food for birds and other insect-eaters. According to environmentalist Lewis Regenstein, author of America the Poisoned, no more than one percent of all garden bugs damage plants. That is one bug in a hundred. The other ninety-nine either pollinate flowers, help to decay organic wastes, or eat other bugs. Chemical poisons destroy insect life indiscriminately, including both pests and helpful bugs, as well as leaving tasteless and invisible chemical residues on the produce that consumers eat.

Companion Planting
Insects enjoy certain garden plants while others may repel the pests. Natural gardeners intermix plants which will both attract and repel insects.

Insects rarely damage garlic, chives or shallots, as well as a variety of aromatic mints and herbs, including easy-to-grow basil. When aphids (leaf-sucking insects) descended on my prize rose stand, a friend suggested inter-planting chives among the tattered bushes. To my astonishment and delight, the aphids soon left my rose plantings. This experience immediately converted me to companion planting as an easy and healthy way to control insects.
Since that time, I have often used other plants to dispel insect pests. Planting dill near tomato plants, for example, helps to control the horn-worm problem. The ferocious pests seem to prefer dill where they are easily seen and promptly dis-patched. After years of trial and error, I have found that all members of the onion family, as well as nasturtiums, marigolds, mints and herbs repel pests. Even quick-growing radishes, planted in a circle around vine crops, help to keep leaf-chewing pests at bay.

Summing It Up…
Successful natural gardening improves topsoil to support the growth of sturdy plants which can fend off insect pests. Continue to learn more about the natural gardening process. During spare moments, especially during the off-season, read books on the subject. It takes time to learn about the natural gardening methods that have been used for centuries. Your organic gardening knowledge reservoir should continue to fill year after year.

At age 96, Leo VanMeer firmly believes that eating poison-free fruits and vegetables keeps him fit and looking forward to more years ahead. To order his book Step-by-Step Guide to Natural Gardening, mail a check in the amount of $12.95 postpaid, made payable to Mary VanMeer to: Leo VanMeer; PO Box 8127; Clearwater, FL 33758. For more articles on natural gardening, visit www.vanmeer.com.